Sunday, May 22, 2011

Secret History Ger Camp


The lodge at the Secret History Ger Camp
After choking on the smog in UB for the winter and much of the cold spring we get here, Alissa and I promised ourselves this week we would get out of the city no matter what this weekend.  We did, thankfully, leaving the haze and congestion behind.  We traveled north, my first trip in that direction of Mongolia.  There was some green in the hills as we zoomed by, rocking up and down in our 4Runner over the many bumps in the Mongolian roads that make a car ride feel like a journey on the Oregon trail with an SUV in place of the covered wagon.

We would not be disappointed on arriving at the Secret History Ger Camp.  It was more of a lodge than a ger camp, with some permanently constructed wooden gers that had cylindrical windows sticking up from the ceiling.  The shape and circular windows made me feel like I was staying in Bilbo Baggins' hobbit-hole from Lord of the Rings.
Our ger/hobbit-hole
The view from Secret History
View from the lodge balcony
Upon arriving we immediately set out for a hike on a trail behind the lodge that went up into a nice glen of birch trees.  Unfortunately we arrived well into the afternoon and still planned on getting a run in, so we had to head back down the hill without seeing how far our trail would go.  Another time, maybe.  But there were flowers and budding trees.  The signs of new life that come with spring we had yet to see any of, really, and it was difficult to contain our excitement.
A quick hike in the forest
In the birch grove
Proof there are flowers in Mongolia
The best part of the countryside this time of year, speaking of new life in the spring, was the many baby animals tagging along with the herds and flocks that populate the steppes.  Baby horses running alongside their mothers were fun to watch.  Baby kids and baby lambs were mixed in with the large flocks on the hillsides.  Cows roamed the gate to the ger camp as if on guard, giving dire looks to those who passed by while continuing to eat the grass, scruffy heifers and young bulls mixed in with the herd with stubby horns.
Cows guarding the gate

Baby horses tiring out their mothers
The Secret History Ger Camp picked a nice setting for their location.  With the birch forest behind them and many trails to explore they have trees and ready access to the steppes Mongolia is famous for.  The lodge is a great place to go in the winter to escape the pollution of UB and snowshoe or cross country ski.  They also have a nice restaurant, by Mongolian ger camp standards, complete with a menu to place orders from.  In most of my experiences with ger camp cuisine (which is limited), the camp serves up whatever they have prepared for dinner.  Ordering is not an option.  We had a nice steak dinner complete with Greek salads.  No black olives, unfortunately, but the cucumbers, peppers, and tomatoes were pretty fresh and they did have feta cheese.  Not bad eating for the countryside.  I felt spoiled.  Breakfast the next day included an omelette and bread compete with coffee.  It was instant, but good for instant coffee.  And believe me, I can be picky about these things.
Morning and I am ready for my coffee
The main options for activities in the spring and summer at Secret History are horseback riding and hiking.  We opted for running since the Mongolia Half Marathon is in two weeks.  The steppes were great for a run, with great views of landscape to keep you in a dreamy state throughout, though difficult with many hills.  When we get back, I hope to do more hiking and maybe even some horse riding.  The staff were very nice, though their were not many English speakers.  Alissa was able to put her Mongolian studies to use on many occasions while I sat or stood nearby feeling dumb and mute.

While driving away and heading back to UB, we took as many pictures of the baby animals as we could.  One baby goat was separated from the flock and came bleating across the road in front of our car.  Lost and confused.  I could relate to the poor little bugger.  Our spirits dropped a little when we saw UB off in the distance, a gray cloud hanging over the valley.  At least we have some pictures and memories.  And we plan on getting out again next weekend.  It is only for a week.
Where did everyone go?
There they are, run for it! 
A flock on the steppes


Some horses get a drink and a bath
The smokestack that is UB
Welcome back!


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